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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary achievement.